This blog is my attempt to keep track of some of the things I learn along the way, with my Canon 7D, G12 and accessories. All images copyright Brad Calkins, not to be used without permission (or purchase). I do not attempt to monetize my blog, other than to promote my stock photo portfolio on Dreamstime.







Saturday, December 6, 2008

Manual versus not

My mother is taking a course on photography and she was commenting on how her teacher was touting the advantages of shooting in manual. While I am no stranger to manual I really think this argument is directed to people who set the camera to program and then don't notice what settings the camera picks. This is a crucial point - there is not an iota of difference between the camera picking 1/125s - f/4 and you setting the same in manual. The only difference is that you saved yourself the time and trouble, and maybe got a shot you wouldn't have had time to get.

Histogram


"Sure," you say, " but what about when the meter is wrong?". Good question! You simply change the exposure compenstation dial to correct a stop or two. With digital you have a histogram on the back plus the image itself so instant feedback helps you quickly get to the right exposure whether in manual or auto exposure. I have the following comments on the several Canon Auto Modes:

1. Program. While I have nothing against program mode, it will pick both shutter and aperture for you. While the shutter speed doesn't really matter as long as it will stop motion (if that is what you want) the aperture does play a big part in the final picture. Since you don't really have control over either I never use program mode (see below). I do realize that you can quickly adjust with the command dials to get the shutter/aperture you are after but I hate having to wheel in a good aperture every time I take a shot.
2. TV. Time value. This is the shutter priority mode. You set the speed, the camera picks the aperture. I always use this mode for long exposures (blurred water, motion blur, etc.) since time is the key variable you want to control. Otherwise I stick to AV.
3. AV. Aperture value. This is my preferred mode. I set an aperture I want for depth of field, or perhaps for optimum sharpness or also just to get the fastest shutter speed (wide open). In all three cases I have lots of options to meter. I can use the spot meter and lock the exposure with the '*' button. I can dial in exposure compensation 'knowing' I will need it, etc. Finally, I am just a click away from the manual mode if I really need to lock down the exposure. What I like about using this mode, is that when light conditions are changing the camera still takes that into account. With manual there is the danger that you don't notice when the light drops half a stop or more.
4. Manual. Unless light on my subject is constant or I need more than 2 stops exposure correction I usually stay out of manual mode outdoors. There are some very handy times to use it though - like when doing a panoramic with multiple shots. In that case you'll want to lock the exposure in so that it is consistent from shot to shot. Another is when using flash. I hate the way Canon locks the shutter to 1/250s for flash shots in AV mode (or lets the ambient dictate both shutter and aperture). I prefer to switch to manual so I have independent control of the ambient (via the manual exposure / shutter speed) and the flash exposure (via the aperture). I can also keep my ambient sharp by keeping the shutter at a speed I can hold. I may not get full exposure on the background, but I hate what program mode lets my shutter drop really low and I pick up blur from parts of the photo when I don't expect it. Oh - and for another case where manual is good: when you have constant light but your subject's brightness changes a lot. Think bride and groom standing in the shade. Black. White. Black. White. Both. No meter can figure that out!

I've tried operating in manual outdoors and here is what I found:

1. I lose a shot or two. I almost always forget to set the camera first and miss my first shot. I'm sure I would get over this after a while.
2. Some people seem to think that you aren't really taking pictures until you spend a few minutes working out the 'sunny f/16' rule, etc. on each shoot. I prefer to get an 'auto' exposure shot as my first picture and then work from there. If it turns out well I'm done!
3. Light changes. The camera is a lot more sensitive to light than we are and keeps adjusting to suit. Either you shoot on manual and are constantly checking the display or you run the risk of lighting changing.
4. My kids don't stand still! If you have every tried to follow your kids in and out of the shade and sun on a hot summer day I can't believe you still prefer manual.
5. Why guess? My camera has a meter that works very nicely. Why would I spend a lot of time trying to get myself so in tune with the light that I can manually set what the meter would pick? I doubt I'll ever get to 1/2 stop accuracy...
6. I bored of this a long time ago with my old AE-1 and non-auto lenses. I paid my dues - let me use my digital camera's sophisticated meter!!!

Please be aware that some of these comments are tongue in cheek. I don't wish to tell anyone else how to use their camera. If you shoot in manual all the time and get great shots - wonderful! I don't find that it works well for me. If you have some advice that will change my outlook on manual forever then please comment away. Note that the Pentax K10D (and 20D I assume) has a cool feature where in manual mode you can simply hit the green button and it grabs the metered exposure and resets the aperture and shutter to match. You are ready to run with that or adjust away. If Canon had something like that, I think I could finally make the move to manual.

Anyways, if this helps someone who feels they must use manual to get the 'real' photo taking experience feel like they aren't cheating shooting in aperture priority then my mission is accomplished! Progam isn't just for amateurs - it is for people who want to use the built in meter. Just don't get me started on the really automatic Green mode ;)

Thursday, October 23, 2008

Stock Photography

I've been selling photos on Dreamtime for a while now, and while I'm not in any danger of quitting my day job, it is starting to provide some income for photo gear. Here are a few recent shots that I thought turned out quite well:

Frost
© Photographer: Bradcalkins | Agency: Dreamstime.com

Autumn
© Photographer: Bradcalkins | Agency: Dreamstime.com

Leaf texture
© Photographer: Bradcalkins | Agency: Dreamstime.com

I also picked up a Lumiquest Softbox III recently and here is an image I took with it:

Sunglasses
© Photographer: Bradcalkins | Agency: Dreamstime.com

Sadly, my Canon 20D seems to be packing it in. I have a number of issues these days, none of which impact the photos, thankfully:

1. Image fails to save, get Err 99.
2. Lens stops working aperture goes to 0, needs to be removed and put back (Canon lenses).
3. When reviewing photos, a click of the dial fails to advance the photo. One more click causes it to jump 2.
4. Battery indicator shows no battery, camera shuts off. Removing and replacing same battery shows 100% charge again.
5. Occasionally the camera does not focus when I half press the shutter. Nothing seems to happen - although the meter engages, etc. I thought this due to having the depth of field inadvertantly acitvated, but have proven that to not be the case. Can't quite figure this one out.

I'm building up to a 40D or 50D, I figure. Don't really want the 15MP, but will sell for more as stock, plus the screen on the 50D is nice, and the focus microadjust. If I'm buying I figure I should probably hit the latest and get another 4-5 years out of it. I must have over 50,000 shots on the 20D, now.

Thursday, June 19, 2008

Opportunity for photo taking

I had some engine trouble last week, and rather than being worried about the actual problem my first thought was to grab a picture before the engine light turned off!

Car trouble engine light
© Photographer: Bradcalkins | Agency: Dreamstime.com

Tuesday, May 20, 2008

Over on dtnguyen's blog, there was an interesting article on managing a telephoto to get sharp photos. Someone commented that the photo used as an example wasn't sharp, and there was a bit of a 'challenge' for a sharper photo from a telephoto. I started looking through a few photos, and although I have a lot of 'sharper' examples, they are not from telephotos, and are almost in every case a larger portion of the frame. I tried to find some that were about the same percentage of the frame. What I found was that almost all my telephoto shots (70-200 f/4) are a little less sharp than my shots from my 17-55 f/2.8. Here are a couple of examples of what I would consider typical sharp photos my lenses seem to deliver in REAL shots, either outside or in the 'studio'. Another way of saying that is that I don't think I get any sharper results in my telephoto shots (with a great lens that is very capable) than in the example enlargement.

This is from my 17-55mm at 55mm, stopped down a stop:
This is from my 70-200mm at 189mm, wide open at f/4:
Both are processed through Phase One Capture LE with no output sharpening. I didn't adjust any of the settings from the shot defaults. The top photo is a flash capture indoors, and the bottom is a sunlight/shade shot outdoor. I used a 1/250s shutter speed in the telephoto shot (plus IS), and I shoot on an APC sized sensor (Canon 20D).

I'd informally judge them to be about the same sharpness, but the bottom shot was a relatively rare find among my telephoto shots. Perhaps I tend to use the telephoto more often for 'action' shots whereas the shorter focal lengths get more use in controlled lighting situations (i.e. studio/flash). In any case I think it speaks to the need to take time to ensure sharp results from long lenses - the original point of the article.

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Color Management, Photoshop Elements & EpsonR1800

After sorting through a large number of web search results to try and find the best settings to use for my Epson R1800 printer, using Espon Premium Photo Paper Glossy, and Photoshop Elements 5 - I finally hit upon a bunch of settings that work for ME. I've ignored the reams of advice to let Photoshop manage the color and turn off the printer color management. Here are the settings I arrived at:

Selected 'Let Printer Manage Color' in PSE:

In the print driver ICM mode, I select my color space (Adobe RGB (1998) for this print), and the paper profile from Espon. What could be easier!

Sunday, April 13, 2008

Image Stabilization Works...


Last night I thought I would take a few test shots with my 70-200mm IS lens. This is a 1:1 centre crop of a handheld shot taken at 200mm, at 1/13s f/4. There is no chance I could take a picture this sharp at that shutter speed and focal length without IS. I've converted from RAW and done a little sharpening, about equal to what I would normally do on a shot to print. Also - this was not one out of a bunch of trials, but the only shot taken. The point is that it helps a lot in low light with a static subject.

Friday, April 11, 2008

Depth of Field

Here is an interesting 'take' on the depth of field issue between crop and "full frame" sensors. Anyone using anything other than a 24x36mm sensor will likely be interested in some of Paul's conclusions.